[XCSSA] Recovering Vinyl Records w/Open Source Software
xcssa@xcssa.org
xcssa@xcssa.org
Wed, 20 Sep 2006 12:30:50 -0500
I often hear people say that computer sound cards cannot be made very
good because of electromagnetic noise, etc.
However, this flies in the face of quite a few high end audio cards
which are often used in very demanding applications, such as equipment
testing and digital audio mastering. They may use a few tricks (such as
on-card voltage re-regulation) but they get the job done.
I have an oldie, a Turtle Beach Fiji which is a 20 bit card, which is
the center of my audio measurement system which can detect very low
levels of distortion (0.0022%) and noise. It's just in an ordinary
beige box computer and works fine. The most high end audio measurement
systems you can get, the Audio Precision systems of various kinds, are
all PC based. (Of course, they provide the PC, which is custom made.
For $22,000 they ought to.)
I also have a M-Audio 2496 (24 bit, 96 Khz) in my Mac. That's a great
$99 card. And there are lots of others by companies like RME and Echo.
The biggest problem with most computer audio is not the "noisy
electromagnetic environment" but manufacturers who are too cheap to use
good parts/engineering and rely more on advertising.
But even there, strangely enough, there is typically more of a problem
with the DA (outputs) then the AD (inputs). Even ordinary cards often
have pretty good AD inputs.
That's not to say there's anything wrong with getting a good outboard
device and then using USB or other digital connection methods.
For my LP copying, I use a standalone device, an Alesis Masterlink
recorder which has a built-in harddrive. You can first make a harddrive
copy in 24 bit, then crop, adjust level and so on, then record to CD in
16 bit. This is the same thing that Stereophile turntable guru Michael
Fremer uses (and also the Stereophile editor John Atkinson). For a high
end quality professional product, they're surprisingly cheap at $799.
Only limitation is that it does not have an impulse noise removing
function to remove pops and clicks. For my records and listening, I
don't usually find that necessary. When I do, I use an SAE 5000A
impulse noise remover, which is passable. One thing nice about the SAE
is that it basically doesn't affect the sound at all when it's not
removing pops. When lots of pops are being removed, the sound can get a
trifle dull sounding. They can be had on ebay for $50-$100.
Charles
xcssa-admin@xcssa.org wrote:
> I'm sure those who've done this have their own best practices, but as
> I was chasing old links from my personal web site, I found that one of
> the big names in vintage computing had documented his procedure.
>
> http://home.att.net/~halbower/index.html
>
> If I can ever get my turntable and a computer close enough together,
> I'll have to give it a shot. It's all in NetBSD pkgsrc...
>
>
> John D. Baker NetBSD Darwin/MacOS X
> http://mylinuxisp(dot)com/(tilde)jdbaker/ OpenBSD FreeBSD
> BSD. It just sits there and _works_.
> GPG fingerprint = D703 4A7E 479F 63F8 D3F4 BD99 9572 8F23 E4AD 1645
>
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